Surfing is harder than it looks especially when you are the “goofy one”


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No there are no waves on this beach, we had to head out to the reef

I am not quite sure where I got the idea I would give surfing a go.  I think because I like the water, I have got myself fitter over the last couple of years, and it seemed like a fun and empowering challenge.

But what I forgot, is that although I am fitter now, I am basically quite an uncoordinated beast.  My Granny used to call herself a Bumble Foot and I am pretty much the same.  If someone is going to trip over the crack in the pavement or jam their handbag strap on something, or knock themselves on a door handle that person will be me. The thing is surfing requires fitness, upper body strength and coordination.  Knowing your right from your left helps as well.  I knew it didn’t bode well when just practicing on our boards on the land our instructor referred to me as the “Goofy One”  I think she meant it in a caring way,

There are lots of things to remember, body placement, foot placement, don’t look at your feet that you should have placed correctly, keep you knees bent.  That is just on the board stuff.  I am not even going to mention Eskimo rolls, and Turtle dives.

But if you are going to the Goofy one surfing Bali is the place to do it.

  • The water is warm
  • Fantastic staff that will push your sad slow arse out onto a wave
  • When you head back to the boat for a rest/sad moment you get a pep talk and then kicked off the boat and told to get back on that pony/wave

Basically I am pretty crap at surfing, I spent a lot of time getting dumped in waves,  trying no very successfully to gracefully get myself back on the board, and no one tells you how hard it is just to sit astride the thing.  But I learned some really important things that funnily enough tie in very nicely with yoga.

  • Pushing harder and harder at something isn’t necessarily going to make you better – sometimes it pays off to pull back a bit
  • There is always child’s pose or in the case of surfing – back on the boat pose
  • Stop worrying about being in the perfect position just do the best you can do and it will work out
  • Just because a move looks simple and easy when it is done by an expert doesn’t mean it is

Today I head out again to give it another go.  Hopefully I will do a bit better, but if I don’t it’s ok.  I  am able to tick something off my wish list in a stunning location and get an amazing salt water bath at the same time.

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The cute boat I spent a bit of time “resting” on

 

 

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